Returning to a dream of my boyhood!
Making and Carving a "Paddle to the Sea" model
First here are some photos of the completed model of "Paddle to the Sea"
Paddle to the Sea model
Making working drawings of "Paddle to the Sea"
Paddle to the Sea dimensions
Scale drawing of Paddle to the Sea. I made this actual life size and will use it to take measurements from as I make the model.
Making a model of "Paddle to the Sea"
The book said the carving was made from a piece of pine....so I used this 2x4 that was in the basement.
The hull is a bit thicker than a 2x4 so I cut and planed these two pieces which I will now glue together to make the blank for the hull. I was able to find 12" long sections of the 2x4 that has no knots.
Here is the finished hull blank cut and planed to length , width, and height. I made a paper template of the hull shape and and here tracing it onto the blank.
Here's the hull with profile cut out on bandsaw.
Tracing out the plan view shape of the hull.
Now the hull has been cut out in two dimensions on the bandsaw, and it will be all carving from here.
I made pine blank the size of the paddler and sketched out the side profile.
Paddler blank cut out on bandsaw....all carving from here on out.
Carving the little hero....he is starting to take shape!
There is a shallow recess for the interior of the canoe in the pictures in the book, here I am carving the shallow recess.
Rough carving in progress (the paddler is not glued in place, he's just resting there for effect).
The exterior of the hull, I carved with my Helles knife.
For general carving on this model I am using these palm-held carving tools from Flexcut, they are such wonderful tools to use!!
Ballast recess has been carved into the bottom of the hull.
Carving continues...
Using a Shinto Rasp to finish roughing out the hull exterior.
Thwarts made and glued in place. You can also see the aft pack has been carved/sanded/glued in place. I later recarved the aft pack, as I liked the carved look better than the sanded-smooth look.
Carving the bow pack.
And here's the status as of tonight. Calling it a day!
Micromark Type 280 model casting metal. tin/bismuth alloy with no lead or cadmium (I know a deviation from the lead used by the boy in the book). Melting temp 280degF. I bought two 1 7/8" pucks to melt down but only needed one.
I levelled the hull in both directions prior to pouring metal into the ballast slot.
Hull levelled in both directions prior to pouring ballast metal.
Pouring ballast metal.....it was so low temp that even in the 20ft walk from the stove to the hull it formed a skim surface which had to be overcome in initial pouring and which caused an oveflow which poured over the sides of the cavity as seen in the photo. A deeper melting pot with a spout would prevent this.
Balance of pour went perfectly.
I set out to build an accurate reconstruction of the model from the book, I think I will succeed and fail in various ways.
1. Dimensions and accuracy of shape, form and color: I believe I will be very accurate in these areas. I watched the movie clip above of the ship provided by Navyshooter, and I see three thwarts in the model used in the movie, and I fully respect that model, but I do not see three thwarts anywhere in the book, so I will stick with two. Each interpreter of a model must make their own decisions, and whoever made that model for the movie did an outstanding job in my view.
2. Materials:
a. All wooden parts in the book : pine. All wooden parts in my model: Pine.
b. Lead ballast in the book: Tin/Bismuth in my model....a deviation for safety purposes
c. "tin" rudder in the book, I will use a piece of aluminum, a deviation for long term corrosion purposes.
d. "Enamel" paints in the book, I will use same.
3. Tools: from Chapter 1 in the book , I see a hatchet and two different knives for carving the model. I used a table saw and planer to form the pine blank, and I used a bandsaw to cut out blanks for the various pieces as shown in my photos.....maybe I should have used a hand jigsaw which would have been doable. I did only use knives and chisels for carving, no dremels.
4. Construction: It is not clear from the book how the model was exactly constructed, but the impression I get from the early pages is that the boy carved it out of a single piece of pine. I made my hull from a piece of pine and am making the thwarts, packs, and man, from separate pieces which I am gluing to the model. This may be inaccurate, but! I submit the illustration from the 2nd page of chapter 26 to support my decision to make the man from a separate piece of wood with the grain vertical along the upright plane of the man. For copyright purposes I will not post the illustrations here. The illustration supports that the boy built the model with the man made from a separate piece of wood with vertical grain perpendicular to the grain of the hull. I will use wooden pegs to attach the perpendicular-grained pieces of the man and the canoe.
Here is the blank I made for carving the mid-ships packs. They are angled like this in all the illustrations in the book.
Finished carving the packs.
Carved and glued on his hands; he feels better now!
Rudder cut from an aluminum sheet with a tin-snips and I sanded the sharp edges to dull them.
I used a saw with a thin blade width to cut a slot for the rudder.
Rudder superglued into the slot.
Making the last piece....the paddle!
Finished paddle for Paddle to the Sea!
I wrote out the words as seen on the model in the book, first in pencil on the bottom of the canoe, and then etched the words in with an awl.
Time to paint!!!
Painting in process....note that I have not glued the individual carved pieces together yet, it is easier to paint them individually and then glue them together.
Painting continues.....
completed model!!
Here is the model on display at our place in Door County, Wisconsin. I made a display stand out of a Birch tree that died in our yard.