This photo shows long pipe clamps to port and starboard which are clamping the cabin-top-beams end-wise, and a central clamp which is providing endwise pressure on the foredeck beams. Two small clamps are compressing the mast trunk sideways between the cabin top beams, and two spring clamps are holding the cabin top beams down vertically in their pockets in the far aft bulkhead. The big boards you see running the length of the boat are temporary spacing template fixtures that will be removed after glue-up. they were provided with the kit and are very handy.
- The aft edge of the foredeck is supported by a piece of plywood that is epoxied onto B2, the piece is in the kit and is pictured below. I will modify this piece to fit on either side of my extra reinforced deck-beam-gussets.
- It's been about a year since I worked on the deck or veranda areas. I have been working on the hull planks, cockpit, and footwell in that time. I am getting ready to install the seat tops, and after that I will install carlins and decktop, so I went ahead and glued up the deck pieces with thickened epoxy. See below.
- The sole is installed and the cockpit is almost ready to have the seat tops installed, so I am preparing to attach carlins and gunwhales. I ripped them to the proper cross section from as nice as possible pine boards as could be found. I ripped carefully so as to remove as many knots as possible. I wound up with many 100% clear boards and a couple with tight knots.
- I have heard of quite a few SCAMP builders snapping these pieces as they bend them into place. I took one of my clear strips and clamped it into position on the outside of the hull, and I was able to do it without snapping, but boy o boy there was alot of force on there and I felt it may very well snap....or that I would snap a couple in the process.....so I decided to steam bend the carlins and gunwhales.
- Built a steambox out three, 6 foot (1.8m) sections of 6" (150mm) Sched 40 PVC pipe. Whipped up some fittings and a high temp hose onto the top of my propane burner and big pot. The far end of the steam box has two 3/8" holes drilled into it to relieve steam pressure. The entire assembly is glued together except the end cap where the steam enters the box....that end cap is held in place by two screws so that it can be opened up to put sticks in and out.
- Well, never having steamed wood before, I filled the pot up a little over half way and let-er rip. I put four sticks in, and steamed them for an hour and twenty minutes. Then I turned off the heat, and waited for steam to stop coming out of the steam exit holes. Then, with thick leather gloves, I removed the end cap and pulled the boards out. They were plenty hot. I immediately took them and clamped all four along the contour of the gunwhale on the port side of the SCAMP. It still took some force, but I was able to pretty easily bend and clamp them all in place, no snapped boards. Checked the water in the pot and I had boiled it down from a little over half full, to about a third full, so I refilled to a little over half and repeated the process for the starboard side.
- My plan is to leave them on there for a couple days and hopefully the curves will have set-in so that I can reinstall them with epoxy and screws later.
- SAFETY NOTE: You follow my actions and plans above at your own risk! I am not experienced in steam boxes, and am not a qualified steam box designer. Steam is dangerous; it can build up extreme pressures at burning temperatures, and an improperly built steambox could build too much pressure and a component of it could explode under pressure. Do not force steam into an enclosure without a way for the steam to safely exit the enclosure. Do not use materials in areas where they could start on for or melt. If you are using fire to heat the water, do it in a safe place where you wont start other nearby things on fire; probably best to do this outside. Have a hose or fire extinguisher handy. Use materials that can withstand the pressure and temperature. Do not open up pots, containers, or boxes that are under steam pressure.
- Photo's below
Installing SCAMP Gunwhales and Carlins
- The carlins are made from nearly clear pine. First I steam bent the gunwhales and carlins, and clamped them, 4 per side, to the port and starboard gunwhale in order to shape them. Detailed on steaming the gunwhales and carlins are further up on this page.
- I left them in place for a couple weeks (longer than needed, but I have been working on other things), and today I unclamped them. They had some memory of their old unbent ways, but the steaming had worked its magic, and they were very easy to fit to shape. First I clamped two of the pieces onto the gunwhale, and predrilled holes from the outide-in, and from the inside of the boat out, into the two gunwhale strips.
- Next I made a 5/8" x 1/4" x 14' strip of clear wood left over from a scrap from the mast, and I used this to practice trimming the carlins. I made a perfect fit template of this piece for the outboard carlin. I then used this template to saw the first carlin piece with the japanese saw. I clamped this piece in place in the boat and estimated how much longer the second carlin strip would need to be, and cut it accordingly (slightly oversize) and filed it to fit.
- Then I epoxy coated and installed the carlins with clamps. They wanted to slide up and down in certain places against each other, especially with the lubricity of the epoxy, so some vertical clamps were needed. I used spring clamps between the bulkheads to compress the carlin strips together.
SCAMP gunwhale strips, predriled. Before unclamping the dry-fit gunwhale, I made some marks across both gunwhale strips and the hull plank, so that when I am installing them, I can quickly locate their correct position. The gunwhale is predrilled for screws from the inside through the plank and from the outside through the outer gunwhale strip.